It meets the target idle perfectly in either but if I lightly stab the throttle it tries to stall after slightly revving. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. I recently install a sniper efi. Yes it is controlling the timing and I had issues at first and it controlled the idle just fine. would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. I'm happy to walk you through what is required. TPS 0. Again, I would lean on that solution to let the vehicle drive/learn before you try to "fix" anything. Should I just disable idle timing control? If you haven't installed a Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. We offer some tips to help with that. It is good to at least know that the Sniper fuel pressure regulator can have high pressure failure issues (contrary to what I posted to Scott back on April 13th!) I would start by removing the progressive linkage. Though it started and ran good, it was dumping fuel and would not lean out to AFR set points. I think you will find that it will learn its way through this. They also recommended that their ground be spliced into the Sniper ground as close to the Sniper as possible. Im thinking a faulty TPS. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. While adjusting the screw if the TPS position reads begins to read higher than 0% cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero. ChrisI finally got everything resolved. Going back to what you said. If you feel you have no other choice but to run a Sniper and stand-alone controller then you can give this a try. When the lambda is 1.0, the displayed AFR is 14.7;1 REGARDLESS OF THE FUEL. I'm so glad you found this helpful--that makes my day!Don't get too concerned about the specific learn percentage. Idle > IAC Kick. Featured Products EFI - Fuel Injection $2.59 - $6,499.95 2179 Products View Parts Sensors IAC percentage is 5 to 10% when idling with fans on, What you're experiencing is the delay time between the ECU sensing the additional load and the IAC actually increasing the RPM. That is what I really respect about Holley. The engine might run hot but if the timing is right it should keep that heat in the engine--which is where the damage turns up. :-). I have not heard of this. So, if pressing the throttle is making it start, it's because you're flooded.Which is consistent with your rich idle condition comment, right? any advise would be appreciated. The problem I believe this is creating is after I start vehicle (and its still in park), the IAC drops down to my hold percentage of 10% (since throttle % is not 0) before engine is warm and therefore causing the engine to stall out. I have been able to get it pretty You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. If you go the other way then you might find that the IAC zero's out when the fans are off. Seems to be working. A problem since day 1 - YouTube Leave a comment if you've had this issue and how you resolved. Nice to meet you. You could install the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor and let the Sniper control your timing. You can re-enable this after you have completed this idle speed adjustment process. If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. IAC looks good once it finally s fires. That is the first thing you must find. Im not sure what its doing, have messed with after start fuel, fuel at cranking. It only comes back to normal if I turn the engine off and on again. Perfectif you have the original synchronous linkage. Switch power to the Sniper on and crank the engine. Usually it wont stay on 0% very long and soon changes to another number like 1 or 2%. Others might require 60 RPM. The IAC should display a 2-8% to bring the idle up to the actual target. I keep doing that with the same result. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. Sometimes an engine can produce enough vacuum to pull the secondaries open slightly. Inj. The Fuel Base map is perfect, the car works well, runs well, running through the streets, the car is great. I installed another return spring for the rear plates problem solved instantly. I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure whats going on. ?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. One of the signs of a vehicle with a rough idle is a faulty Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor. What should I be looking at to calm this down? first attempt but as it tries to idle down to the target RPMsit can never even I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. Thank you for any advice. That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. Chris's Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions*: *Note: If you are using your Sniper to control ignition timing then I recommend that before you start this process you disable idle spark control If you are trying to do this while the ECU is simultaneously trying to bring your idle under control by adjusting the advance it is going to be counter-productive. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. If I cruise down the road at lets say 60 mph and lay into it, she will take off and go. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. I'll give the ". back to trying to zero down an idle. If you datalog the Sniper ECU and see multiple overlapping traces for the same signal, you likely have RF-induced problems. It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. Genuine Walbro fuel pumps are virtually bullet-proof. Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. As you have noted, each time the idle goes up. i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. Find a lower price anywhere and we'll beat it by 5%! The next time it happens is the perfect opportunity to find the problem. I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. Thank you for this guide on setting IAC. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. You just need to go back through the IAC adjustment procedure now that idle timing control is enabled. In addition to avoiding this particular problem, the total solution is much better. If more info is needed just ask. My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. Get a solid feeling for where it is when the engine is warm and the idle speed is correct. The person I bought it from said he never could get it to run for more than a few seconds. Commanding the engine to automatically increase speed when switching into drive is a little scary to me though. $107.95. Definitely would have went with you guys. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. After a complete cool down it will do the same thing. One additional wrap on the secondary coiled shaft spring is all that's necessary. If the ECU has not spent some significant time learning yet, I'd recommend going back through the setup wizard and getting everything back to default. This will go a long way to improving your fuel map without manually adjusting the acceleration enrichment. Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. All times are GMT-6. Otherwise, if removing the air cleaner eliminates the whistle then try to use a thicker gasket or try lightly greasing the gasket. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. For the first couple of drives it was running well, Sniper EFI was working exactly as advertised. Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. Camshaft is M-6250-B303 .480 lift intake & exhaust, duration at .050 is 224 degrees for intake & exhaust. SNIPER EFI TO HOLLEY DUAL SYNC HARNESS Part# 558-493 $34.44 Qty: Add To Cart Idle Air Control Motor Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems Part# 543-105 $71.72 Qty: Add To Cart Thanks, That is an strange situation. However, I have never found that to be the case. However, I did have another fellow who contacted me that claims he went through three units before he could get one that would talk between the ECU and the Monitor. I've changed all the There are a few tell-tale signs that can help you diagnose the problem. I have verified that there are no vacuum leaks, not to mention the car runs to good to have a vacuum leak bad enough to make this noise. I did change the -40 thing also. Covered the IAC port and set idle for 850 ish. The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. If no air is passing (and the idle doesn't drop) then your IAC is working. The Sniper will be controlling the timing so it will be based on a multitude of factors. I.e. the issue The small rubber plug had a leak. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. It's all part of the adventure! This was an issue in the earliest version of the Sniper firmware. But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. It does this with the engine off. Except at idle. That's what you're seeing. No problems with either cold or hot starts. I have never seen issue when CTS is below 120 degrees. As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. My dad wanted to recheck the timing so I set the Static Timing at 15 and it runs perfect. I've been having problems with my sniper efi just shutting off. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. You can manually set it 57 after you run the Wizard if required. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. Thank you very much. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. Now, 1% on the TPS isn't a problem, but when it goes to 2% (which is inevitable if you have RFI moving it to 1%) then the IAC is going to go to it's hold position (30% by default) and the engine is going to rev up. That way you can get into that part of the table that needs tuning, and you can watch your learn numbers grow. Fortunately, Holley has another product that can solve that: Hydramat.. Hydramat is not inexpensive but you won't believe what it can do. When this occurs, I sometimes can shut it down and it will return to the correct settiings. Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. It reads 0 at idle and when I accelerate it goes up to 30 and makes a loud sucking sound that seems to be holding the car back. It didnt do this with the carb on it. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. Ilike a few othersam having idle issues. If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. If I were there in person I would test the function of the IAC (see this article.) By the time I was near home, the idle in Park was 1050, IAC 0. This may require shortening or lengthening a rod. Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. Chris---I am contemplating replacing my Holley 750 on my new low vacuum 600 HP 496 with the Holley Sniper FI system. I have an entire article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions and while Sniper is still a sound choice for some applications, Terminator X (with transmission control) is hands-down the way to go for those who need that. Thank you chris for for getting back to me on this matter.I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. Start engine let it warm up to 160, learn mode is learning. That 60% (which is configurable) is known as the Clear Flood TPS. FYI: Car is a 1970 Mustang 302 Ford Racing roller motor. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. Um, no. technical rep said "You ahve high fuel pressure". No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. I'd really appreciate some help. Is this normal ? It will need to see it again and again. Or alternator? Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. I installed the Holley Sniper in my Chevelle this winter with a brand new BluePrint 496. Only in the unlikely event that your engine simply won't run well enough to drive and self-learn should you consider tweaking anything inside of the first several hundred miles. This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. I very pleased with the performance, it is a huge improvement from the 800CFM carb I had on this motor. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. Those little 1/8 NPT gauges are pretty inexpensive and generally pretty easy to find locally.If you confirm that the pressure is indeed 90 PSI you could pull the fuel pressure regulator apart and check it. If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. I have probably 200 - 300 miles on this engine and it has always done this. In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. Short drives is fine then it'll Take it a step at a time. sniper Installation If you're installing a Sniper EFI system and almost ready to crank it over for the first time, this is the video for you! Clearly, something is changing. :-). You can disable the idle spark control at the locations below. Did your process to adjust idle to 860. And all too often we don't take that extra step of using a piston stop to ensure that the timing pointer is on zero when the engine is truly and exactly at top dead center. The throttle plates are misaligned. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. installing and cruising down the highway 70 mph I just wonder if all I have to do But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. I had this same exact issue. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. If you set the RPM above idle to start ramp too high, then it may not ever get down to the RPM above idle to re-enable. However, whenever you start changing things, you can get into a chain reaction. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. After the start process, If the idle speed is higher than the target idle then the IAC should begin closing as long as the TPS is below 2%. Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. Note: The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries. :-). A few, however, get tangled up getting the idle control working just the way they want. Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. Any help would b great. This curve runs fom -40 degrees to 260 degrees, and gradually reduces the RPM along that range. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. Once you know that then you can work on those problems. Tried that and it didn't work? I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. 1. These aren't generic newsletters either but instead personalized emails. Please give this a try and let us know how it works! Free ground shipping regardless of order size! I would gladly engage with you to solve this but ultimately you are going to need to go through whomever you purchased the system if a warranty return is in order. Once we recognize that, the next step is to narrow down all possible sources of additional air until we discover the cause.Start by keeping an eye on your IAC number. Handheld shows plenty of fuel so I dought it's an issue there. Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. Save Share. My Sniper is 99% great! I had a customer who struggled to understand that. i would have been happy to answer there. This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. I keep doing that with the same result. Or is there something else I should Thank you so much for your follow-up. Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Some suggestions: i did have the same problem.try lengthening the lever of the throttle.meaning the length from the center of the throttle to the point where you attach your cable or your rod from the peddle. TP range is normal goes up to about 90% with throttle pedal to the floor. But you've got to find where air is getting into your engine.The reason it's going up as high as 2400 RPM is because once you press the throttle beyond 1% the IAC opens to the park position. Going lower with the blanking might pay dividends, but there is so little room below 7/8 that you will quickly be in a range where every tiny variation in the TPS or MAP is throwing extra fuel into the engine. It is simply for the benefit of the user. This item: Holley - 543-105 EFI Idle Air Control Motor , Black $71.72 Holley Sniper EFI 870001 Throttle Position Sensor $34.60 Holley 860004-1 92MM Sniper Throttle BDY $223.93 Customers who viewed this item also viewed Page 1 of 1 Start over Holley EFI Idle Air Control (Iac) Valve Motor 30 13 offers from $79.56 Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? My Sniper started having a ticking noise-- I have 90 miles on my Sniper, but this started the last 10 miles or so: it still drives fine, but it worries me so i've stopped driving it for now. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. First--besides the fact that it's not represented on the display, it is not even a parameter that you can datalog. Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. We have shipped quite a few of these to customers in Australia and New Zealand so I know that there is becoming a good following there!We recommend this Inline 10-micron fuel filter to prevent problems like that. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. A simple remove & clean will remedy this . The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. Physially manipulating the linkage by hand will generally reveal if you have a sticking linkage that is preventing the TPS from returning from zero. Cl. Yes, you are correct. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. :-)Yes, learn impacts idle too, and remember the even when the basic learning is done there will continue to be some learning for changes in weather, altitude, etc.Go ahead and try a few idle settings and see how they impact the idle-speed searching. Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner. I installed Holley Sniper on three other Mavericks here in Brazil and the problem also exists.I did not make any changes to the parameters, only on Target AFR and the correction on the Idle Speed Curve chart. IAC Pos.% = 0 Unless you have ignition control enabled, that is the only thing it can do to reduce the idle.Realize the only things that can cause the car to idle up as you describe are air and ignition advance. Thanks so much for reading! I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. I don't want to go on too long here but once you know if you're trying to add or remove fuel, there are a couple of ways to go. It sounds like you need a bit more of a fuel squirt on acceleration, Brett. The warmer the motor, the higher the idle will be at this point. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure Gauge, article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. Okay, try my method. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? That is the IAC hold position. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN There are six different acceleration enrichment tables that you can tweak and that may be the way to go. So I had my Idle set up perfect, with idle timing control off and engine hot the IAC was right at 2-4%. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the I would suggest you take a look at that if you haven't already. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. Does this seem reasonable and how hard will it be to get the idle and off-idle performance correct? Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. This page was generated at 12:26 AM. I did all of this before seeing the link you sent. When I drive with warm engine the IAC is at 30% when pushing gas, but shouldn't it be at 0%? You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed.

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